ocean – Page 3 – The MoHo and Other Traveling Tales

Lake Talawa and the coast at Crescent City

Today was the day! We did a bit of internet searching last night to check local tides and possible put-in sites for a trip on an inland lake north of Crescent City. On Google Maps, the two lakes looked accessible but sometimes it’s hard to find a launch site where there is a lot of private land surrounding the lake or where there are wildlife refuges. Lake Talawa and Lake Earl have both.

I found an old website for a kayaking group that is no longer active, but they decided to keep the site up so people could use the information. I’m sure glad they did! We drove north around Earl Lake wandering off towards the west until we came to an extensive area of old roads that weren’t maintained any longer. According to the web site, there was a subdivision planned here that never made it. The roads were cracked and full of potholes, and as we approached the lake it was apparent that we were the only people around for miles.

Another possible deterrent could be that the lake was too low and too muddy to launch there. Instead, we found tules and sedges, with ground underfoot that was firm enough to support not only us, but the Tracker. We parked just feet from the water and launched effortlessly.

With a new boat it is always a bit thrilling to try it for the first time. This boat is so stable and comfortable there wasn’t a moment of wobble or concern. It felt great. Surprisingly, the cockpit is really quite big and the boat is about as wide as my old boat. The keel seems smoother, but Mo didn’t think they tracked any better than our old less expensive boats. However, lifting them to the racks is the deciding factor here, not speed or agility. We aren’t racers at all, and just want to get around easily, have a boat that tracks well, and is roomy and comfortable, and we can lift overhead without groaning. Check on all counts!

I it was still quite foggy, with only filtered sun coming through so the landscape all around us looked surreal. I knew the lake shape from the phone and could see where we were on the lake, but the distances and the changes in water levels made for some interesting moments. Accompanying our paddle was the incredible sound of huge crashing surf just beyond the dunes. With the fog it was hard to discern just where we were, and thinking we were at the dunes I checked on the iPhone to find we were still in the middle of the lake with some islands that didn’t show up on Google Earth.

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We paddled on to the ever increasing crash of the surf, and I wondered if the lake was perhaps breaching the dunes as it sometimes does when the water is high. Suddenly we were surrounded by white floating sea foam that looked for all the world like small icebergs. As we approached the beach we could see really huge waves that were breaking over the dunes and felt the surges of the incoming water. The tide was supposed to be receding and this definitely wasn’t feeling like receding at all! I read something on the weather page last night about a huge ocean swell that was coming this direction, with high surf warnings and waves to 25 feet. Sure made me nervous to see that water cresting over the dunes toward me! I turned and ran and Mo laughed at me, but we felt the swell again and didn’t have to paddle much at all to go back inland fairly quickly.

On the way back to our launch site we saw some otters playing, and a huge flock of snow geese flew overhead. We saw a lot of blue and white herons along the marshy shores. In the fog, everything looked much bigger and yet farther away than it actually was. There was no way to get a feel for where we were at all. I was really glad for the IPhone GPS and map, believe me!

Once back to the car, we loaded up effortlessly, excited about how easy our maiden voyage was. We decided to go back toward Crescent City and explore the other side of the lakes toward the ocean along Pebble Beach Road. Once we got there, we could see a lot of viewing activity along the headlands, with cars parked and people hiking out to high places and watching the surf. Once we did the same we discovered why. The waves were HUGE. It is impossible to take any kind of photos that actually show the scale of these waves coming into the shore. There are headlands and sea stacks in this vicinity that are at least 100 feet high and the waves were breaking completely over them. The waves were at least 30 feet tall, and breaking very far out from shore. There were all kinds of warnings out about staying away from the breakwater and not turning your back on the ocean, se we paid attention to all that and stayed up high.

It was truly exciting. The power of the ocean is so huge, and sometimes with just normal waves it is easy to forget how she can be in a storm. The part that was even more amazing is that there was no storm going on here at all, in fact there wasn’t even any wind. What an exciting thing to see. Mo lived on the ocean near Half Moon Bay for more than 30 years and I spent a considerable amount of time at the ocean as well. Neither of us have ever seen waves like those we saw today.

As always, there are many more photos on my Picasa website for this day linked here.

Cruising to Alaska Day 1 and 2

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This cruise wasn’t really planned much in advance. After all, we did just do a wonderful two week trip through the Panama Canal back in January. But one day, Mo just said, “How would you like to do the Alaska Inside Passage” and before long we had our cruise tickets and our air miles took care of the transportation to Seattle for another great vacation week.

Mo has been to Alaska but I haven’t. She drove the highway many years ago and camped in her Scout among the mosquitoes. We still plan to make a MoHo trip there before long, but in the mean time a cruise is my perfect introduction to the state. Cruising can be addictive. As the days passed and the time to leave got closer, I found myself fantasizing about the slow slide of the sea, and the way a cruise slows my own internal pace. I watched the weather, seeing temperatures in the high 50’s and rain for most of the trip, and I didn’t care. I was going to Alaska, and I was going to relax, and watch the sea and the sky and the mountains, and get waited on for a whole week. Ahhhh.

We left early Sunday morning from Medford, and found to our delight that Alaska Airlines still serves complimentary wine on their flights to Seattle. So what if it was only 6 in the morning, we mixed it with orange juice and thought it was a great start to a fourth of July day. I couldn’t see passing up that sweet little freebie, especially when we had to pay surcharges for all sorts of things, including our luggage. By the time we reached Seattle, the dark northwest clouds had descended, but it really didn’t feel too terribly cold. We had a light breakfast in the airport while we tried to entertain ourselves until the ship shuttles were functioning. By 11 we were on a bus to the Magnolia District and by noon we were actually on the ship. It was the slickest, quickest, cleanest embarkation we have experienced on any cruise so far. Impressive! Especially so after our last experience with Celebrity, such a great cruise line, and yet they didn’t even come close to the efficiency we experienced with the Princess staff.

Once on board, even though staterooms aren’t usually ready so early on the day of embarkation, ours was ready and waiting. We unloaded our carry-on’s and headed up one deck up to the Lido for the welcome buffet. This is the first time we have taken a room on an upper deck, and ours is in the middle, right at the central elevators. It’s also our first time with a balcony room, and I love it! Even if it’s too cold to just sit out there all the time, the view is open and wonderful, and we can leave the door open at night for fresh air.

I think comparisons are inevitable since we cruised so recently. Our last cruise before the Panama Canal was with Princess as well, and I found myself trying to remember just how different the Crown Princess was from our current ship, the Sapphire Princess. I also find myself continually comparing this ship with the Celebrity Constellation. It is really surprising to me that two ships in basically the same class (Crown Princess and Sapphire Princess) can be as different as they are. Last night and today, we have been exploring. Much like the Crown Princess, and very much unlike the Constellation, there are many areas on this ship are disconnected to other areas. There are three sets of elevators, but they all don’t go to the same floors, and sometimes you have to change floors to continue to the aft or forward portion of a deck. It makes for a lot of walking and climbing, a good thing for us, but not necessarily for everyone.

This trip, for the first time, we chose second seating dinner at 8. Last night we went to the early show at 7 and then to dinner at the International Dining room. The theater was large, but not especially lovely and the show was just ok, with a few dance numbers and an OK comedian. Thinking this schedule would work for the rest of the cruise, we were a bit daunted to find out that this ship doesn’t have an early show and the only way we can go to both dinner and a show is to do the late show at 10:15 pm. Maybe not! I am a morning person, my kids all know this about me, and know that trying to call me after 8pm at night will result in a pretty stupid conversation. I also know that if I call them at 5am when I am all bright-eyed, they might not be so chipper either. Except for Melody of course, who is chipper on the radio at an ungodly hour. But I digress.

Our dinner was adequate but certainly not memorable, and the dining room a bit boring. However, we did have our table for two ready for us without a hitch. The fabulous two story dining room with the incredible elegant food that we enjoyed on the Constellation came with a price. We had to fight for our table for two after some glitches, and when we did finally get one, it was right next to the work station. Entertaining, but definitely noisy. I guess there are trade-offs, no matter what. I do miss those wonderful dinners with all the flatware and elegance. Here, we both decided that we could miss dinner in the dining room without feeling as though we were missing something, and plan to do so tomorrow night so we can see the show without staying up till midnight!

Our only goal for this first sea day was to refuse to rush around anywhere, and to do everything in a leisurely way. My goal was to find the fine line between leisurely and lazy.

The morning began with a brisk walk on the top deck jogging track, small enough that it takes ten laps to get in a mile, but certainly nice enough. The skies were clear and blue and it was windy! Then down to breakfast, which by the time we got there, was very crowded. We found a table outside the main part of the cafe, and especially enjoyed the really good watermelon. ‘People-watching’ has been fascinating on this trip as well. The crowd is completely different from any cruise I have experienced, with lots of cultural diversity, an even mix of age groups, many young people, and lots of families. The pools and ping pong tables seem to be kept pretty busy with this bunch. Midmorning we explored the ship some more, found the Alaska cruise companion book with maps, and settled into the cafe area on the fifth deck for cappuccinos. A late lunch in the Savoy Dining room was delightful, with a traditional English Pub offering of fish and chips and Bass beer. An afternoon of cards in our room punctuated by whale sightings, and somehow it was time to prepare for the formal night dinner.

Dressing up is always fun, but this time it was also incredibly entertaining to see everyone else in their finery. Japanese women, young and old, were wearing special traditional lovely silk embroidered gowns. Indian men wore colorful pashminas over their tuxedos, and some women were in saris. It was fascinating. The captain greeted everyone and introduced his crew, and champagne flowed freely. Dinner was filet mignon, and again, adequate but forgettable.

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It is 10:30 now, Mo is sleeping while I write, and the sun has finally dipped below the horizon. Tomorrow we will see Ketchikan, arriving early in the morning and returning to the ship by 3:30. Alaska at last, traditional Alaska with totems and Creek Street. As I watch the shadows of the wild coastal mountains coming closer in the twilight, I am filled with excitement about what is waiting ahead.

Exploring Pacific City and Lincoln City Day 2

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Such a leisurely morning! We slept in till 9am, something that never happens at home, and then had a simple cereal breakfast. The weather was sunny and cool, with no fog or rain. Pacific City was north of us, and we wanted to explore it after reading about what a delightful, quiet beach getaway town it was. Once there, we discovered Cape Kiwanda, with its gorgeous beach, and the home of Haystack Rock. Another big attraction there is the fact that you can drive and park down on the beach, and there is a single huge sand dune mountain for climbing and sand sledding. There were many people enjoying the sunny day, but it still didn’t seem too crowded. There were also a lot of dogs enjoying the beach as well. It’s nice to have a place where your dog can be on the beach. So many times when we would go to the beaches in California we couldn’t take Abby. We had a great time walking again, and this time the winds were really blowing, but it was still not terribly cold. This beach is famous for it’s dory launching site, and after watching some dory landings, we read the commemorative plaque about the history of the dories on the Oregon Coast.

After our walk, we explored the Nestucca Bay Wildlife Refuge and looked for other camping and kayaking possibilities. North of Pacific Beach we hunted down some small county campgrounds we found on the internet. They are cheap, quiet, and off the beaten track, but not something we would choose. Woods Campground in Pacific City isn’t much more than a parking lot, and the Wehalin Island Campground was barren and open, with less than a dozen sites. It seemed to be filled with long term campers in vans and tents and wasn’t really very inviting. It was also surrounded by a tidal flat, that might be lovely when the tide was up, but was rather yukky at low tide. These campgrounds are operated by Tillamook County, and for us would be a wide spot in the road to use for emergencies only.

Back to Lincoln City to find Mo’s Chowder House for supper. Of course, we would want to eat at Mo’s! After supper we checked out the flag shop, of which there are several, and bought a wonderful flower whirligig for our campsite. We also put up the chili pepper lights around our awning and hung the wind chimes. Ahh, camping at it’s finest. I did my share of tent camping and ground sleeping, but these days all the little delights of motorhome camping are great. I guess it really isn’t camping, though, but it is wonderful. A couple pulled in next to us this evening in their big Class A, and when I complimented him on his parking skills (these sites are small!) he laughed and we talked about how this really isn’t camping, but it really is fun. Now, the photo on the left may be a bit strange, but I found myself laughing as I realized that it’s hard to live without a “junk drawer”. Even in a motorhome. Doesn’t everyone have one?

Another campfire after our spaghetti supper ended another perfect day at the coast.

Off to the Oregon Coast Day 1

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We left for the coast this morning at 9:15. What an amazing morning it was at Rocky Point, with the sun shining brilliantly and the temperatures warming up at last. A bit ironic to be heading for the cool coast when we have been waiting through such a long cold spring for some summer weather. Still, it was exciting to get the MoHo back on the road again. Diamond Lake Junction is just little over an hour north on 97 but there is a great little restaurant there that has probably the best breakfast in the world. From the outside you wouldn’t have a clue, with a big sign that says EAT. It looks like any dumpy little roadside greasy spoon. I do think that breakfast there is the best I ever found, and this morning we made it before the 11am breakfast cutoff time. Mo and I shared something called the “Bigfoot”; chicken fried steak, eggs, hash browns, and biscuits. Even with two people eating, we couldn’t finish the entire thing and took some with us in a box for a later snack. Something about that meal takes me back to a simpler time, like macaroni and cheese or fancy fruit jello salads. I love the new style of eating, with fresh food, lots of veggie choices, and ethnic seasonings and styles. Still, there is something of the south in me that melts for chicken fried steak, childhood food, southern food. Reading Laurie’s blog (Semi-True Tales of our Life on the Road) this year about their travels and eating adventures in the south made me want to go there just for the food!

We traveled to the coast via HWY 97, over Willamette Pass on HWY 58, I-5 to Corvallis to HWY 99 north into Dallas, turning west on HWY 22 to HWY 101 to Lincoln City. There are just a few routes across the mountains, and then a few from I-5 leading west to the ocean, so choosing is just a matter of preference. We were settled into camp by 5, after eight hours driving that included our nice breakfast break. Our destination this time is a State Park right in the middle of Lincoln City adjacent to Devils Lake: Devils Lake State Park. Since it was high summer at the coast, we were smart enough to make reservations and we had a full hookup site, even with cable. The campground there is nice, but the sites aren’t very private, and there were LOTS of kids around, riding bikes, making lots of noise. The highway is close as well, and traffic is loud, but tempered a bit by the sound of the ocean, just beyond the highway west of us.

After settling in, we explored the campground, found the delightful boardwalk through the wetlands that led to the highway, crossed the road and found the beach. A two mile walk along beautiful clean sands was perfect for us and for Abby, where she could be off leash after we left the state park boundary. So many of Oregon’s beaches are gorgeous, but short, punctuated by cliffs and rocks and it is sometimes hard to walk any distance without being stopped by them. This beach is long and clear, and you can walk for miles in either direction.

Home to our campsite for the evening campfire. The skies are clear and the winds are mild and temperate. Wonderful end to our first day.

Truly Relaxing in the Keys Day 6

The photos of this day are here.

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There are several major sports in the Keys. Sunset, Water, Drinking, Eating, and Relaxing: not necessarily in that order. For the past five days we have partaken of most of these activities, except the relaxing part. Today is about relaxing. I am sitting at an old picnic table on the golden sandy beach at the Lime Tree Bay Resort. We are in the town of Layton, on Long Key, really just a narrow spit of limestone and sand stretched along the Overseas Highway. There is a QuickStop across the street, a water sports rental shop down the road, and Long Key State park a mile away, but with the exception of a place next door called “Little Italy”, the closest restaurants and stores are 12 miles south or 10 miles north.

We woke this morning to warm sultry breezes with barely a touch of coolness on the edges, and a prediction for rain and thunderstorms. Our plans for the day include sitting by the water, maybe walking to the park, maybe swimming, maybe kayaking. The only item on the agenda we are sure to do is relax. Of course, writing about it all is relaxing for me at a place like this. The only sounds around me are the rustle of the palm thatched shelter, the palm trees, water lapping the limey shore, a few birds making morning sounds, and the gentle drone of traffic on Highway 1.

The Lime Tree is a fine little place to stay if you don’t care about access to amenities. The room is spacious, and clean, with bright lime yellow walls, pure white linens, and our own bathroom. The bathroom is tiny, and one must sit sideways on the toilet to keep from bumping knees on the wall in front of it, but it is our own. No running down the hall and hoping someone isn’t already locked up in the bathroom!

There is a feeling to Florida, in some places, referred to as “Old Florida”. I have felt it in the north central part of the state, around Ocala, in Citra, out on the Emerald Coast near the Gulf, and now here. There are low buildings, things are just a tiny bit tacky in ways that are hard to define, and something about it settles me down inside in a way that doesn’t happen often. It’s the part of Florida that I love, and I didn’t really expect to find it in the Keys.

Today we will relax, tomorrow we will head back to Miami in the morning for our flight to Sacramento, and another round of moving things back home to Klamath Falls. But today, right now, here in front of the Lime Tree Inn, everything is still and perfect.

Later: The morning was nicer than we expected, so by eleven we were on the water in the sit-on-top kayaks provided by the resort for a spin around the bay. They had rules; not too far off shore, and only an hour out. It turned out to be good enough for us because by the time we went out and back the winds were up and we got a good workout getting back to the dock against the waves. We finished up with a nice swim before the thunderstorm hit. Our timing was perfect.

By late afternoon, the weather had cleared enough for us to travel back toward Marathon and Milepost 49 for a watercolor art show and then we found a great beach to explore, complete with dolphins. Dinner at the Island Tiki Restaurant with a seafood quesadilla and some key lime pie rounded out the evening. Our flight doesn’t leave Miami until 3 in the afternoon tomorrow so we should have plenty of time to pack and amble up the Overseas Highway one last time as we leave Florida and head back west.