September 8 Toronto

The few somewhat gloomy photos I have for this day are linked here.

Toronto (1)Glen Rouge Campground is owned by the city of Toronto, located in a linear greenbelt parkway called Rouge Park,   dissected by the Rouge River.  The grounds are well maintained, with laundry facilities on site.  These consisted of two washers, one of them broken, and two dryers, one out of service.  With more than a week of laundry collected, I decided to try to find a laundromat where I could actually get the laundry completed in something less than a full day.  Mo decided to go with me so I wouldn’t have to wander off into the city alone, and we set out to find a laundry. 

The camp hostess suggested a place a few miles west toward town on Kingston Street, which sounded reasonable, but at the early morning rush hour, Kingston Street was backed up cars in all four lanes punctuated by stop lights.  The fresh, almost antiseptically clean suburbs gave way to seedier neighborhoods and crowded apartment buildings with varying degrees of window coverings that included aluminum foil. Maybe these are the kinds of neighborhoods that actually need laundromats, since most of the fancy townhomes near the area we left behind probably had their own in home laundry facilities. 

About $12.00 Canadian, and four loads later, we emerged with clean bedding and fresh clothes.  Watching all those folks doing laundry reminded me of the days when I did diapers for three babies in laundromats, too poor to own a washer that worked.  Life is good.  Now I only go to laundromats when I am traveling.

Toronto (2) Another supposed amenity of Glen Rouge Campground is the excellent security.  Last night it was severely lacking, however, and somewhere around 2am our next door neighbor hosted two cars full of drunken party goers. They entertained us with raucous conversation, loud music, singing, and falling down sounds until the last car pulled away around seven this morning. When we reported this to the camp hostess, she made some mumblings about security, and I got the impression that maybe the security personnel may have been part of the party. Our other neighbors are just fine, sweet and just conversational enough to be fun but not intrusive, and they love the cat and dog.  We will be leaving tomorrow morning, and I am hoping that the rowdy neighbor is too worn out from last night to keep us up again tonight.

With laundry handled, we took Abby to a doggie day care and once more took the train to town for another day of exploration.  Toronto has so many interesting offerings, but the Royal Ontario Museum called me most, with the exhibition “The Warrior Emperor and China’s Terracotta Army” in residence, it was something I didn’t want to miss. The ROM, as it is affectionately known here in town, is just a little over a mile north of Union Station on University Street.  It was a great chance to walk more city streets and observe how the demographics and energy of the neighborhoods change throughout the city. 

Toronto_ROM (5) Queen’s Park is at the center of the University of Toronto campus, and has the most amazing collection of huge hardwoods, oaks, maples, and others, that I have ever seen.  In the dark shade of a dreary day, I found it impossible to capture the immensity of these trees in a photograph.  The main building of the University was as imposing as any castle I have seen anywhere, and the cosmopolitan atmosphere was impressive. 

Toronto_ROM (7)We finally found the ROM north of Queen’s Park and entered.  There was an extra fee to see the Terracotta Army, but it was well worth it. After complete immersion into Chinese history of two hundred B.C., we emerged into the rest of the museum.  Much like the Smithsonian, the sheer volume of the exhibits is overwhelming.  I decided that the only way to truly visit a museum of this stature would be slowly, a day at a time for each section.  Since we didn’t have that luxury, we wandered a bit aimlessly through the halls and rooms and stairwells.  Photos weren’t allowed, but mental images include a totem pole from British Columbia spanning all four stories of the building and a domed ceiling tiled with gold and inlay that was as intricate as any we saw in Turkey.

After all that walking and wandering, we were starving, so took advantage of what is known in Toronto as “street meat’”, the hot dog stand. Hot dog is a misnomer for what we ate today, with the juicy succulent meat sliced diagonally and roasted on an open flame right before our eyes.  The condiments included fancy colored peppers and a sweet corn relish among the usual goodies.  We sat on the steps of the ROM and watched people passing by while munching down the best hot dog I ever ate in my entire life.

Toronto_ROM (8) The Museum station of the TTC Subway was right there, and it was a quick, 4.00 jaunt to Union Station just in time to catch the express GOTRAIN to our home station at Rouge Hill.  After two days we were getting to be old hands at finding the stairs, hallways, and platforms of the transit system.

After picking up Abby from her caretakers, we desperately needed some internet time to handle business affairs, and finally found free wireless at the local coffee establishment called Second Cup.  Much like the Starbucks of the old days, they had great coffees, comfy chairs, a fireplace, and free wireless.  Time to catch up on banking and email, and try to get photos up and maybe a blog post or two at least!  By the time we left the place was full of interesting people, talking, computing, drinking and eating; definitely a hoppin’ place to be in the suburbs of Toronto on a Wednesday evening!

We plan to leave by 6 in the morning to drive to Niagara Falls and miss the worst of the Toronto traffic, so the alarm is set for 5.  The rain comes and goes, but it stopped long enough for us to get the bikes and the kayaks loaded up again and get things ready for an early departure tomorrow.

 

September 4 Gogebic to Sault Ste Marie

The rest of the photos for this day are linked here:

Gogebic_to_Sault (11) Rain seems to be following us on this trip through the northern part of the country, and according to the weather forecasts, it will follow us into Canada.  Today we left Gogebic Lake in the rain and drove across Michigan to Sault Ste Marie, on the Michigan-Canadian border. 

Our northern route included a side trip to the Picture Rocks National Lakeshore in the northern part of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. In the small town of Munising, Michigan, we had pasties, touted as the best on the UP.  I think that may be true.  Muldoon’s Pasties specialty are the traditional beef, potato, rutabaga, and carrot kind, served with a rich beef gravy.  Mo liked the apple dessert pasty the best.  The definition of a “pasty” is a pie that is made without a pan, basically a kind of hand pie.  Yummm.

Gogebic_to_Sault (24) We left the MoHo in Munising and drove the 11 mile route to the shore through gorgeous hardwood forests. The weather was wild and windy, but Pictured Rocks was still the highlight of the day.  We hiked out to the overlooks and along the cliff trails of the one area of the park that is reasonably accessible.  I can see how on a pleasant day this would be fabulous coastal kayaking area, but it also wouldn’t have been as dramatic a visit as it was for us in the wild wind.

After our sidetrip, we ambled on through the UP to Sault Ste Marie.  The town actually consists of two cities, one on the US side and on in Ontario.  The locks here are operated and owned by a cooperative effort between Canada and the US, and were built in the mid 1850’s and one of them is the longest lock in the world.  After our tour of the Panama Canal last January, it was interesting to see locks that were built long before the Canal locks.  The level of Lake Huron is 21 feet below Lake Superior and the volume of commerce has been immensely important to the economies of this part of the world.

Gogebic_to_Sault (29) The visitor center here is extremely well done and informative, and there are viewing platforms for watching the ships go through the locks.  The rapids of the St Mary’s River have been preserved in a small section adjacent to the locks and are a very popular fishing site.  Because of the rain and high winds however, there were very few ships attempting to navigate from Lake Huron to Lake Superior.  The next big ship, a 1000 foot long freighter, was scheduled to enter the locks after 9pm.  We decided instead to go find an Irish Coffee in a pub, check out the souvenir shops in town across from the visitor center, and go back home to our warm and dry home waiting at the campground.

Soo_to_Killarney (5) We opted to stay at the Auld Osborne campground operated by the city of Sault Ste Marie.  As we approached our destination, the volume of big fifth wheels and motorhomes was surprising.  Once settled in, however, the site was OK, with a view of the river and a somewhat open site.  The pedestal for the power was in a pool of water, and the water was in a completely different direction. Not long after we got settled, we saw a parade of people heading for the riverbank, and figured that meant a ship was on its way.  Sure enough, a big freighter rolled by, moving amazingly fast.  Most of these freighters are hauling taconite, a form of iron ore that has been processed for easy transport.  The visitor center had information on the many types of freighters and their history, and in the shops we saw the freighter identification guide book, a worthwhile purchase if your plans include more than a single night.

 

September 2 Duluth

the rest of the photos for this day of travels are here.

Duluth (2) Our campsite at Jay Cooke was perfectly comfortable, and after a very wild night of hard rain and thunder, it was good to know we didn’t have to rush off anywhere in a hurry.  Planning two nights in one place is great, because then there is at least a day to explore some of the local area. Once we reach Niagara Falls, Labor Day will be in the past and we do hope to spend a bit more time relaxing and seeing the local sights. 

We asked the waitress last night what shouldn’t be missed in Duluth, and she insisted that the Skyline Drive and Enger tower was something that everyone seemed to think was the thing to do.  After a relaxing morning, a good breakfast, and a good MoHo cleanout, we took off again in the Tracker to see a bit of the town.  Duluth (5) The visitor center near Spirit Mountain has a great display of panoramic photographs labeled with all the sights of the Duluth Harbor and is a great way to get oriented to the layout of the city.  They also provided two maps and a full page of descriptive directions for negotiating the Skyline Parkway.  The drive was dramatic even on a cloudy day.  The gardens at Enger park were filled with hostas and other familiar perennials that we grow at home, but they were so much bigger than what I can grow at Rocky Point.  Amazingly, the tower was open and there was no fee to climb the several flights of stairs to the top for the view of the Duluth Harbor.  In fact, no one was around except the pigeons, and Abby even managed to climb all those stairs to the top.

Duluth (37)After winding around the bluffs overlooking Duluth, we drove down to Canal Park to explore that area as well.  By then it was raining, so we got out the umbrellas and raincoats and made an attempt to see some of the area.  The Lakeshore walk follows the shoreline for a couple of miles but with the rain we decided to have lunch instead.  I was tickled to find my favorite Walleye on  the menu and enjoyed the succulent, delicate white fish found only in these cold northern waters.  The last time I had walleye was in St Paul several years ago when Mo and I traveled there during winter. I wasn’t disappointed.  Both times I have had walleye, it has been the most delicate, tender, moist, fresh, sweet fish I ever ate.  Bar none. 

Duluth (44)We checked out a few shops and then drove down to the Rose Garden.  This part of Duluth is wonderful, with so many walkways, trails, bike paths, and gardens.  I would have loved to spend some time here when it wasn’t raining, but even in the rain it was a special place.  Only one ship passed through the Aerial Lift Bridge while we were there, but I was glad to see it in operation. 

We skipped the traffic and ambled home to Jay Cooke in the rain and settled in for a peaceful evening.

Off to the Oregon Coast Day 1

Click here for more photos:

coast_day1 (1) We left for the coast this morning at 9:15.  What an amazing morning it was at Rocky Point, with the sun shining brilliantly and the temperatures warming up at last.  A bit ironic to be heading for the cool coast when we have been waiting through such a long cold spring for some summer weather.  Still, it was exciting to get the MoHo back on the road again.  Diamond Lake Junction is just little over an hour north on 97 but there is a great little restaurant there that has probably the best breakfast in the world.  From the outside you wouldn’t have a clue, with a big sign that says EAT.  It looks like any dumpy little roadside greasy spoon.  I do think that breakfast there is the best I ever found, and this morning we made it before the 11am breakfast cutoff time.  Mo and I shared something called the “Bigfoot”; chicken fried steak, eggs, hash browns, and biscuits.  Even with two people eating, we couldn’t finish the entire thing and took some with us in a box for a later snack.  Something about that meal takes me back to a simpler time, like macaroni and cheese or fancy fruit jello salads.  I love the new style of eating, with fresh food, lots of veggie choices, and ethnic seasonings and styles.  Still, there is something of the  south in me that melts for chicken fried steak, childhood food, southern food.  Reading Laurie’s blog (Semi-True Tales of our Life on the Road) this year about their travels and eating adventures in the south made me want to go there just for the food!

coast_day1We traveled to the coast via HWY 97, over Willamette Pass on HWY 58, I-5 to Corvallis to HWY 99 north into Dallas, turning west on HWY 22 to HWY 101 to Lincoln City.  There are just a few routes across the mountains, and then a few from I-5 leading west to the ocean, so choosing is just a matter of preference.  We were settled into camp by 5, after eight hours driving that included our  nice breakfast break. Our destination this time is a State Park right in the middle of Lincoln City adjacent to Devils Lake: Devils Lake State Park.  Since it was high summer at the coast, we were smart enough to make reservations and we had a full hookup site, even with cable.  The campground there is nice, but the sites aren’t very private, and there were LOTS of kids around, riding bikes, making lots of noise.  The highway is close as well, and traffic is loud, but tempered a bit by the sound of the ocean, just beyond the highway west of us.

coast_day1 (15) After settling in, we explored the campground, found the delightful boardwalk through the wetlands that led to the highway, crossed the road and found the beach.  A two mile walk along beautiful clean sands was  perfect for us and for Abby, where she could be off leash after we left the state park boundary.  So many of Oregon’s beaches are gorgeous, but short, punctuated by cliffs and rocks and it is sometimes hard to walk any distance without being stopped by them.  This beach is long and clear, and you can walk for miles in either direction. 

Home to our campsite for the evening campfire.  The skies are clear and the winds are mild and temperate.  Wonderful end to our first day.

Another Lovely Sea Day before our Panama Canal Transit January 7

01_07_at_sea Sea days are one of the great pleasures of this longer cruise. I love them. Time for deck walking, watching the sea, sunning on the upper decks, true relaxation.

On this day, the Constellation held the signature cruise midnight buffet at brunch! What a stellar idea! Who wants to eat all that food at midnight anyway. As we entered the dining room the array of food before us was mind boggling. There were the obligatory ice sculptures, many of them, and rows and rows of gorgeous food, fruits, carved watermelons, anything you could imagine to eat was available.

The sushi was fresh and beautiful, and I saw people with huge plates of fresh prawns, fresh salmon,Bavarian waffles freshly made, and an omelet bar. I 01_07_at_sea (13)don’t think we even made it to the dessert table for this buffet with all the other amazing food to eat, but the chocolate waterfall looked impressive.

After eating our fill, we spent the afternoon sunning and swimming, and Mo managed to get a sunburn by falling asleep on her stomach in one of those great deck chairs.

With all that great food for brunch, we decided to skip the formal dinner in the dining room and went instead to the Seaside for pizza and salad. That evening Diane Cousins from01_07_at_sea (6) Wales finally made it and while she was OK, it certainly wasn’t deserving of all the prior buildup. After the theater show we visited the talent show in the Edge of the Earth disco bar, but it was a bit boring. There are not enough people with talent on this ship, or maybe it is an older crowd and no one wanted to stay up until the 10:45 starting time. Everything is scheduled so late at night that it’s hard to stay interested while waiting around for things to happen. After a little bit of entertainment, and a few laughs, we ambled off to bed to get a good night’s sleep.