1-8-2014 Diving into Texas

Current Location Balmorhea State Park, Texas Currently 40F  Predicted High today 65F

009Old Town Mesilla at the square

Yes, I did mean to say “diving” not driving, although the last couple of days we have been driving along at a nice pace. I’ll explain the diving part later. We took two days to travel about 510 miles from Tucson to Balmorhea, Texas.  Nice to have the luxury of our own home with us and the time to go at a reasonable pace.  When daughter Deb moved to Texas  I helped her drive the rental truck and we drove from LaQuinta, CA, to Van Horn, Texas in one day, almost 900 miles!  Ack!!

The I-10 route from Tucson to Las Cruces is fairly straightforward and not all that exciting.  I am sure there would be great things to find in the mountains north of the highway, but we are on a mission to get to Texas and Florida, so those little side trips are not tempting us.  We arrived in Las Cruces around 3 with a reserved spot at the Coachlight RV Park, advertised to be within walking distance to old Mesilla and a Passport America Park with a good rate at $18.65 for our overnight stop with hookups and sewer, good WiFi, but no cable. It wasn’t the finest of RV parks, but decent enough for an overnight.  If you want something fancy and aren’t worried about the expense, try the Hacienda RV Resort, where Mo and I stayed on our first trip through when the MoHo was just a few days old and we didn’t have Passport America.

006Walking distance is relative, however, with over a mile each way not something we particularly wanted to do after a day of driving to go get supper!  Instead we unhooked the baby car and drove down the road to Old Mesilla to walk around the square a bit.  I remembered a little place on the square that had all sorts of salsa and chili stuff, so added a bit of green chili to my goodie stash.  The square was fairly quiet, with the Christmas holiday behind us and not many folks out and about on a weekday afternoon.

007I won’t rewrite what has been written so well about the history of Old Mesilla, but if you are interested in reading about one of the oldest settlements in New Mexico, explore this link.

When we were here in 2007, we did eat dinner at La Posta, a very historic restaurant with very good Mexican food.  This time, however, we opted for a less pretentious little restaurant recommended by several locals we spoke with, Andele’s, just on the edge of Old Mesilla.  The atmosphere was generic at best, but the food was great and the salsa bar was fun too.  We ate early, but by the time we left there was a good sized waiting line at the door, so the popularity of the place was evident. I had what they called traditional Mexican tacos, and the fixings arrived on a plate with some warm fresh corn tortillas to go with.  With six different kinds of salsa at the salsa bar and some grilled onions, my meal was incredibly tasty, and was enough to feed us a second night with more left over for snacks.

original Mexican tacos at Alvardo'sWith a location along the interstate between El Paso and Tucson, the city of Las Cruces might be easy to bypass.  It is a nice medium sized city with a great University and a dry climate.  I guess that is what has caused the population to increase so dramatically in the last decade or so.  The shopkeepers all said it was retirees from the north and from California who were buying up the land, building new housing developments and still not adding much to the economy. 

I was lucky to see Las Cruces from a completely different perspective back in 2002 when I had the opportunity to spend six weeks here for some advanced soils training.  My work with soils was about the landscape, how different kinds of soils are distributed and what makes those differences.  One of the major factors that affect soil development is the geomorphology, the shape and age of the landscape where the soil is located. 

As head of the National Cooperative Soil Survey, NRCS is committed to keeping its scientists well trained, and the Soil Science Institute is held every few years at different locations in the country.  If you are lucky, you get to go and if you are especially lucky you get to go to Institute here in Las Cruces where one of the most incredible geomorphic studies of the landscape exists.  The Desert Project is a sort of bible of western geomorphology, and that man you see in the photo with the white hat and gloves is one of the authors.

01-07-2014 Old MesillaI spent several weeks in the company of soil scientists from all over the country learning from the best.  It was a highlight of my career and I count several friends among some of those I met at Institute.  I also saw Las Cruces and the surrounding area in much more depth than would happen any other way.  Las Cruces is about so much, but most of all it is about the Rio Grand River.  We studied the ancestral terraces of this once mighty river, visited the farms and orchards, wandered the wild spaces of the Jornada del Muerto, where some of the best rangeland studies are conducted, and spent a day studying the geomorphology of the White Sands not far away.

1Las Cruces is about the River, about cotton and peppers and some of the most extensive pecan orchards in the US.  It is about hot sun and no shade, about wind and dust much of the time.  It is about good restaurants and the smell of chilis roasting in September.  It is about the Organ Mountains and Dripping Springs, the place to go if you need to get out of all that gravelly dusty alluvium and find some real rocks.P1010086

We saw none of this soul of Las Cruces as we passed by on I-10, but I remembered it well.  I enjoyed having an excuse to go back and look at the several hundred photos I took during Institute where I celebrated a birthday in Old Mesilla and planned for my new life in Klamath Falls.  When I came to Institute, I had just been promoted to project leader for the Klamath Falls soil survey, had moved there and bought a house but didn’t take possession of the house until I returned six weeks later from Institute.  It was one of the biggest turning points in my entire life.  Daughter Melody and her husband and kids now live in that little house that I bought before I drove down to Las Cruces. 

to Texas_006Yesterday, Mo and I left early in the morning with another reasonable driving day to Texas.  Much of the route from El Paso is quite near the Mexican border, and as we passed through the city, we could see the dilapidated houses of Juarez across the river.  Once east of El Paso, however, the landscape opened up again and the distant mountain ranges of West Texas beckoned.

Juarez from the interstate through El Paso notice where the fence just stopsWe were still undecided where to spend our next two nights when we stopped in Van Horn for gas.  With the cold weather recently, we had decided that Fort Davis State park was too high and cold and thought that staying at Balmorhea State Park, just 4 miles south of the interstate, would be a better idea.  Lower elevation, a bit warmer, and hookups. 

Stopping at a rest area just a short way from Van Horn, Mo discovered to her dismay, that the electrical connection to the Tracker had come loose and the cord was dragging on the highway, destroying the connection tips.  Lucky for us, we were only a few miles from town, and we backtracked to an auto parts store in Van Horn where Mo got the parts.  With a bunch of fiddling, she still couldn’t get the turn signals to work, so with only 72 miles to Balmorhea, and the evening approaching, we made the decision to just drive with running lights and settle into the Balmorhea.

the rest of the campground is emptyOnce there, I walked up to the office which was closing, so we were told to just find a place and pay in the morning.  I walked back to the rig, carefully avoiding the large curb, and caught my foot right on a big chunk of asphalt that was this side of the curb.  Bam.  Hence the diving into Texas.  I dove into the ground, missing the curb I think, and didn’t break anything.  My hip hurt like heck, but not enough to be broken and I am sitting and walking around so I am pretty sure I am fine.  I do get tired of these dives, however.  I used to leap boulders when I was doing soil survey, so being such a giant klutz is pretty embarrassing.

settled in for the evening at Balmorhea State ParkSettled in, Mo  figured out that a fuse was blown when the “hot” terminal of the connector was dragging on the ground when it came loose. She replaced the fuses,  and everything worked just fine. We ate our yummy leftovers from Andele’s. Looking at the maps, we decided that it would be very easy to just stay here one night and tomorrow drive the 34 miles south to Fort Davis and then 3 miles out of town to Davis Mountains State Park.  We really don’t mind overnighter’s at all, since setting up is fairly quick and very easy.  Especially since the alternative would mean staying here two nights and driving into the Davis Mountains tomorrow and then having to backtrack again.  I dislike backtracking more than I dislike setting up!

Hip stuff woke me up at 3 and I couldn’t sleep, so it has been a good time to write, to read blogs, and to look at old photos of my days in Las Cruces so many years ago.  Tomorrow the Davis Mountains!diving into Texas

“Do you ever get tired of being on the road?”

December 29 2013: Lodi CA 49 degrees F and clear

Miles driven today: 373

map to lodiA friend asked that question of me this afternoon, after seeing a Facebook post about being on the road again and loving it.  And the answer is “yes, of course”.  That is why we aren’t full timer’s.  I love going home at the end of the trip.  I love being home.  In reality, the only time I really get tired of being on the road is toward the end of a trip, whether it is 3 days, 3 weeks, or 3 months.  Once we turn toward home, and it is getting close, I get antsy, and get tired of the doing and going of a trip.  I am ready to be on with it.  Much like when I am home and know that we are leaving, I am ready to get going!

DSC_0003In reality, Barb’s question was a surprise.  Reading RV blogs as I do, I know that we are on the road much less than many folks out there, even part timers often travel more than we do. In 2013 we only were on the road for a total of 102 days, a little more than 3 months, a quarter of a year.  Only.  I really thought that it was more than that.  Until I actually counted, I thought we were out between 1/3 and 1/2 of the year.  This year, however, it might actually get a bit closer to that 1/3 to 1/2 time.  We will see.

Looking back again, I saw that most of the summer, we were home as planned, enjoying Rocky Point.  Most of the fall I was home doing family things, quilting, knitting, cooking.  Last winter and spring I was still working.  So no.  I don’t come even close to getting tired of being on the road. Which is a good thing.  Like an unfinished “bucket list”, there is so much more to do, to see, more places to explore, more hikes, more rivers…and more evenings just sitting in the MoHo quietly typing away and thinking about what I am thinking. Ha!

IMG_0995This morning we managed to get up easily at 5:30.  I had been awake since 4 and couldn’t sleep. Deb had made coffee in the house for us and left the back door open so we could slip in for a last shared morning cup before we got going.  It was cold, maybe 30 degrees, and everything was shrouded in an icy fog.  Seems as though those foggy inversions are a very common winter occurrence in the Rogue Valley.

DSC_0017We left just at 6am, in the dark, with full tanks ready to go, and sleeping with the slide in and the car hooked up, we just pulled out and within minutes were on Interstate 5 heading south.  Oh I do love that feeling, knowing that there are miles and months ahead of me with expected and unexpected adventures.  Sometimes just a change of scenery outside the window from one place to the next is all I need to feel energized.

Especially energizing today was watching the temperature rise from a frosty 14 degrees F near Yreka just over the California border to a toasty 64 degrees all the way from Redding to Lodi south of Sacramento.  I have written about this stretch of road so many times, driven it more times than I care to count.  Just what can you say about it anyway?  The surface is a bit better in places than it was last April.  The skies were clear to the west with gorgeous views of the coast range and a bit murky to the east and the Sierras.  Nope, that isn’t anything new at all.  I quit trying to analyze it, and when I took over the wheel, and Mo napped, I just slid into the sound of the wind coming in the open window and the feel of the sun on my face….and in my eyes.  Dang, that California sun is BRIGHT!

IMG_1012Oh…a quickie story, another one about Michelin tires.  Remember how we got an entire set of Michelin tires for the MoHo before we left for Alaska?  Somehow after sitting in the Texas sunshine waiting to be sold, the sidewalls deteriorated and Michelin replaced them in full, minus balancing and mounting.

After 40K miles on the new second set, the tires were getting a little tired, so Mo decided to replace them before we embark on more than 8,000 miles of traveling.  She replaced 5 of them in late October.  Just a short time ago, she received a notice from Michelin saying those tires were being recalled.  Sheesh!  bad timing for sure.  Mo went to town to get the spare replaced on the recall and talked to the manager at Basin tire about what to do. Today we got an email  from Michelin saying that Mo was being reimbursed for all five tires that she bought.

DSC_0009These recalls aren’t such a bad thing I guess if Michelin keeps giving us free tires!

Tonight we are settled in to Flag City RV Resort in Lodi just off the interstate.  We arrived early enough to set up easily and get the TV going in time for the 49rs game, a close one, but they did win.  Then another re-heated dinner of yummy roast pork, apple compote and scalloped potatoes from Christmas was perfect.

Earlier in the afternoon, while Mo watched the game, I took Jeremy out into the sunshine for a walk and checked out the park.  This place is so generic, close to the freeway, row after row of cement pads and little grass yards, and yet it is completely perfect for us just as it is.  It is clean, predictable, 27 bucks for everything with the Passport America card, with great hookups, good TV, spotless restrooms and laundry, and a really nice lounging area in the office.  We don’t use any of these lovely facilities, since for us this is always just an overnighter on our first night out.

DSC_0011Still, as I was walking around the park I thought it might be fun to at least post some photos of it and as I walked about six big rigs pulled in at the same time.  Some kind of caravan thing had arrived.  We never make a reservation here, and even with the caravans choosing this park, we have never had a problem getting a site.

Yup, I love the unpredictability of a road trip, and then again, I love it when some things are predictable.  Such as a great place to stop for a good night’s sleep on a level pad with power, water, sewer, and cable.  Sadly, we are in Lodi, and if we were “stuck” we could explore the more than 100 wineries in the area that have the very best old vine zins in the world.  Instead, we will settle in for a good night’s sleep, grateful that the MoHo is fairly well insulated from the sounds of the interstate, and continue south in the morning. Generic freeways, generic RV parks, all have a bit of a purpose, they get us where we are going.  The desert is calling.

DSC_0010

Whatever it takes…

to get South outta the cold and snow…

Mission Bay RV Resort, San Diego, CA Clear, High 79F Low 61F

heading south_002DSC_0002It doesn’t matter a bit that we have to drive several hundred miles, almost the full length of the state of California.  Doesn’t matter a bit that for much of that drive we are traveling through the hazy warmed up fog/smog that blankets the Central Valley for much of the winter.  Doesn’t matter a bit that we must drive over the Grapevine with bumper to bumper semi’s jockeying for position.  Doesn’t matter one whit that we decided to drive straight through LA on I-5 to get south to San Diego.  Whatever it takes, it is worth it to get south to the sunshine and blue skies that were waiting.

heading south_008DSC_0008We left Lodi after a leisurely breakfast, knowing we had only 250 miles or so to reach our destination at the Orange Grove RV Park just east of Bakersfield.  We were really happy to see that much of the surface of I-5 has been redone since our last trip south and even with the smog, oops, I mean haze, it was wonderful to soak up the sunshine pouring in through the windshield. Before 2:30 in the afternoon we pulled into the park and settled into space 177 at the far end of the row near the back.  We were also delighted to discover that there was a free RV washing area.  With a huge bag of oranges that would cost as least five bucks and a free RV/car wash that would cost another ten bucks in quarters, our “real” cost of spending the night at this non Passport America park came to about 18.00. 

imported 01-22-2013 001With the orchard fruit picker provided at the camp office, I managed to fill a giant cloth grocery bag in just a few minutes.  Yum.  The smaller oranges on the outside perimeters of the trees were sweeter, and for the last couple of days I have made some delicious fresh orange juice for breakfast. With the MoHo and Tracker all shiny and a simple spaghetti supper we were ready to settle in for a great night.

Of course, fate just had to mess with us a little bit to keep us from taking too much for granted.  After supper I popped in the 3rd disc for the first season of Homeland and was greeted by a strange message on the fancy dvd player/home theater system installed in the MoHo.  It has worked fine now for five years, but tonight it decided to jam with the dvd in the drive.  We went online to check for a solution, and discovered in the process that the unit is permanently wired into the rig with no sign of a place to unplug it. Mo turned off the breaker and we spent close to a couple of hours taking the whole thing apart while it was still hanging from the cubby hole in the MoHo.  We finally gave up and broke the dang thing completely apart to get out the Netflix dvd.  That wasn’t much fun at all, and we still have no clue how we are going to replace the unit, or what to replace it with. Thank goodness the TV still works.

LA from the 5.  I lived here when City Hall was the only tall buildingAfter a good night’s sleep, we both decided to not talk about the ruined player and went on to have a great day driving south once more.  Bakersfield was a smoggy oops hazy, as ever but as we drove up over the Grapevine the haze receded and even going into LA the smog wasn’t bad at all.  Even the traffic was bearable going right through downtown. (Mo is listening to me as I proof this, and she just said “That is because you weren’t driving!) There were a few sections of the 5 between the San Fernando Valley and downtown where the lanes were so narrow it seemed impossible for two big rigs to pass, but we managed with only a couple of rather scary moments as big rigs took up 1/4 of our lane and someone was right next to us on honking because we had to drift to avoid the truck.  Whew!  It looked as though the engineers had made six lanes out of five to make room for more traffic without widening anything to fit .

rest area at Oceanside is built to look like old California missionsOnce we passed Disneyland and Buena Park the traffic thinned out, the lanes widened, and the pavement was again smooth as silk as we rolled on south.  A rest stop near Oceanside was interesting, with huge buildings that looked just like beautiful California missions, but were only big bathrooms made to look like missions. 

doggie bas and disposal are everywhere in this dog friendly worldWe used the iPad maps (I refuse to download the iOS 6 so I still have google maps on my iPad) to go directly to the RV park without a hitch.  We knew that using our Passport America card for a discount meant that we would only be able to stay through Friday morning for the half price cost of $25 per day.  We also knew that we couldn’t make a reservation using the card, but Nina’s assertation that this was the low season here proved true and the park was only about half full.  In no time at all, we were settled in.

Fiesta Island Dog Park with downtown San Diego in the distanceAlthough the park itself is basically a big asphalt parking lot, the sites are big, there are shade trees all around, and there is great security.  The best part of this park, however, is the location.  Right on a peninsula that juts out into Mission Bay, there are miles of beautiful parks and trails all round the bay for walking, and the incredible dog park at Fiesta Island just a few minutes away by car.

It’s a Dog’s Life here in this part of San Diego, and today was all about Abby.  We took her around the Bay Walk here by the park, and then drove over the Fiesta Island to find the dog park.  The island is mostly brown and scrubby, with a somewhat muddy beach, but the dog park is huge, really huge, and is all green and grassy, and the beach that is within the dog park was much cleaner. 

wolf dogs on the Dog Beach at Ocean BeachAfter some time on Fiesta Island, we drove around the Bay and crossed one of the more than 300 bridges in San Diego to discover the Dog Beach at the funky old hippie town of Ocean Beach.  Even though dogs are restricted to the evening hours on the main beach, the Dog Beach is open and leash free all the time.  What an amazing place, with soft white sand and lots of space and waves.  I spread out a big towel and sat in the sunshine while Mo and Abby played ball for a long time before I took a turn.  I had as much fun watching all the other dogs as I did playing with Abby. 

sunset at Mission BayLater in the afternoon we explored Ocean Beach in the car, but didn’t see much that made us want to get out and wander.  Driving north to Mission Beach had much the same result, but finally farther north at Pacific Beach we found a parking spot and got out and walked the Beach Walk. 

sunset at Mission BaySo far, San Diego has been a winner, at least this part has been.  We are reading about the various neighborhoods throughout the city and are planning a day at Balboa Park tomorrow.  Rumor says it is a great dog friendly place, and should be fun even without a visit to the famous San Diego Zoo.  The goal is to stay loose, enjoy our sunny stay here in this new to us city, and not try to fit in so much that we end up feeling rushed and overloaded instead of relaxed. 

 

The Big Horn Mountains and the Medicine Wheel

August 4

The Bighorns from I-90 On the border between Montana and Wyoming, rising to the west of Interstate 90, are the Big Horn Mountains. Referred to locally as “The Bighorns”, and source of the Little Bighorn River, I still haven’t really figured out whether they are the Big Horn Mountains, or the Bighorn Mountains.  Either way, bighorn sheep live in these mountains and they do have big horns.

Living near Spokane and Coeur d’Alene for nearly three decades, Interstate 90 was my most often traveled route east, and many times I passed these gorgeous mountains wishing I could see them up close.  I once knew someone who traveled there yearly for hunting, and a very long time ago (in 1971) I traveled across the southern part on the way from Yellowstone to Rapid City.  The memories stayed with me, and as we planned this trip I knew that I wanted the Bighorns to be part of our explorations of this part of Wyoming. 

day 14_022DSC_0060 There is something mystical and mythical about this mountain range, considered sacred to the Sioux, the Crow, and the Cheyenne for millennia. The centerpiece is the Cloud Peak Wilderness, with a network of hiking trails to remote areas and alpine lakes.  On this trip, I knew we wouldn’t have a chance to explore the roadless wilderness, but I planned for three nights in Buffalo so that we could at least explore the three scenic byways that traverse the range, US Routes, 14, 14a, and 16.

view west toward Dayton from the Big Horn Mountains Scenic Byway 14Unlike the Black Hills, created when a pluton of magma pushed up through the earth, the Bighorns were created during the Laramide Orogeny, the same geologic event that built the Rocky Mountains. Thousands of feet of sedimentary rock laid down when the landscape was covered by an inland sea were uplifted to build these gorgeous mountains. 

The highest peaks are in Wyoming, and Cloud Peak itself is 13,167 feet high. Although there are many evidences of past glaciations, Cloud Peak is home to the only remaining active glacier in the mountain range.   Much like the east side of the Sierras, the east flank of Steens Mountain in Oregon, and the east side of the Rockies, the east facing side of the Bighorns rises abruptly from the plains with dramatic, breathtaking views.

one of my favorite parts of Wyoming...Geology signsWhen we embarked on our Saturday morning journey, we were thrilled to see that the skies were completely clear all around us except for a low gray-brown pall far to the east. From our route north on I-90 toward Sheridan, we could see Cloud Peak sparkling in the morning sunlight.  Highway 14 leads west across the northern part of the range from the small town of Dayton, climbing directly up from the foothills at Dayton, and the views were breathtaking.  I discovered one of my favorite parts of Wyoming travel were the clearly marked signs documenting the name and age of each of the geological formations as we crossed them.

a photo of Cloud Peak, as close as I will get on this tripBy the time we reached the Bighorn Visitor Center near the junction of 14 and 14a I felt thoroughly educated in the geology of the Bighorns. The visitor center was well done, with my favorite 3D maps of the mountain range, and many educational exhibits telling of the human and natural history of the mountains.  Hanging over all, in the center of the dramatic timber frame building, were photographic panels of Cloud Peak, majestic in her isolation.

The Medicine Wheel in the Bighorn MountainsSomehow, in all these years, I had never heard of the Bighorn Medicine Wheel, and yet after talking about it I have discovered that many of my friends have been there.  Having never even heard of it before this day in the mountains though, made it all the more special to me. 

We drove the high winding road to the summit before finding the side road to the Medicine Wheel site and the head of the trail to the structure.  There is a road that goes out there, unless you have a documented disability, you must walk the short 1.5 mile trail to the site.  Later we laughed with friends who had been there, since it is one of those trails that seems to be uphill both ways!    Maybe it is because of the elevation, who knows. 

the Bighorn Medicine Wheel is at the top of the mountain in the center of the photo The walk is beautiful, with views in all directions to the plains to the east, the Wyoming desert to the west, and the canyons to the north. The Medicine Wheel is at nearly 10,000 feet near the summit of Medicine Mountain.  It is built from stones gathered from the surrounding area, with a circular rim, 28 spokes extending from the rim to the center, and a series of seven cairns. It was built between 700 and 1200 AD and has been used since then by many local tribes for prayer, fasting and visioning.  To this day, Native Americans come to the wheel to pray and for ceremonies, and the enclosure is hung with prayer flags of all sorts. 

day 14_064DSC_0106An astronomer studied the wheel in the 70’s and published his discoveries, showing that the cairns were aligned in the direction of the summer solstice sunrise and sunset.  He also found that the rising points of the stars Sirius, Aldebaran, and Rigel are marked by other cairn pairs. More information about this interesting study of the wheel can be found here.

Walking to the Wheel, standing in the high place where so many others have stood, was an experience I won’t soon forget.  I felt much as I did when standing at the Mnidra paleolithic temple on Gozo, and in the Grotto of St Paul on Malta, and in the Hagia Sophia in Turkey.  Sacred places are made sacred for so many reasons, but this one felt as sacred as any I have visited.

playtime with Roger and Jackson in the Bighorn MountainsTalking with the ranger at the site was fascinating.  She enjoys her stint on the mountain, living there for the summer months.  She told us that the day before had been fogged in completely in the morning and then smoked in completely in the afternoon.  One more time we were blessed by the wind and weather gods for incredible views of an incredible place.

Shell Falls on the Big Horn River  We lunched near the summit back on the highway, and then drove down the steep canyon to the dull brown of the Wyoming badlands before reaching Worland and the eastern route, Highway 14, back up over the mountains. The road climbs up the canyons to Shell Creek Falls, with paved trails and overlooks, lots of interpretive signs, and a visitor center.  Much to our dismay, however, our dogs couldn’t even walk on any of the trails, and we found it hard to find a place where they could relieve themselves.  Again, we appreciated traveling in pairs so that one pair could go see the falls while the other took care of the dogs back at the cars.  By this time in the afternoon, the sun was hot! 

getting ready to go, Nancy and Roger are a great teamContinuing over the mountain back to our junction near the visitor center gave us views of the rolling summits of the Bighorns, with broad areas of dark conifers accented by green high mountain meadows.  We even saw a bit of the Cloud Peak Wilderness to the south.  By the time we drove back down the steep east face of the range, it was late afternoon. All of us were too tired to even think of stopping in Sheridan, a town that according to everything I have read is a place worthy of its own visit.

Instead we ambled back to our camp in Buffalo, appreciative of the grassy open spaces, the big shady trees, and the comfortable sites that were far enough from the highway that we didn’t have a lot of road noise.  I can highly recommend Deer Park Campground in Buffalo.  Our three nights there were perfect for the time we had to explore the surrounding area.  The Bighorns were on my bucket list, and I finally got to see them.  There are a lot more photos of this great day including the Bighorn Mountains and the Medicine Wheel here.day 14_194DSC_0237

 

South to California

morning sunlight at the KOA Hitch Itch.  Full timers get it, folks with an RV parked in the shed get it too. The past couple of weeks have been focused on work and home chores, and we both knew we wanted to get in another local camping trip before we head for Colorado at the end of the month.  Medicine Lake comes to mind first, a favorite high mountain destination, but we thought there might still be snow there this early.  Then fate stepped in with an invitation to a retirement party in Davis, California for a colleague.  We thought about it a bit and finally came up with a plan.  Oroville!
site 34 at the Feather Falls KOA There is a big lake there, nice campgrounds, my best friend and her husband are right there, and it is just a two hour drive to Davis so I could go to the party.  Calling the State Recreation Area phone number for reservations, we were shocked to find that electric hookup sites (no sewer) at the Bidwell Canyon Campground cost $45.00, plus the reservation fee.  Geez.  California parks are too dang expensive.  So I looked around a bit and came up with the KOA RV Park that is adjacent to the Feather Falls Casino and for $37.00 got a nice site with full hookups, free WiFi, cable TV and a heated swimming pool.  Hmmm, not such a bad idea.  We figured that we could go to the lake for kayaking without paying that crazy price.
morning relaxation in the shade of the oak tree Sunday morning we decided to drive to Grants Pass to check out another possible MoHo property and then travel south on I-5, a route we rarely travel between Medford and Weed.  The day was gorgeous and cool, with a bit of cloud cover and the drive was perfect.  I always smile when bloggers post the photos of amazing Mt Shasta, and decided that I didn’t need to stop once again to take one more picture of “the mountain”. 
The trip was wonderful and as always it feels so freeing to be in the MoHo on the road.  I said to Mo, “It isn’t just going somewhere that I love, it is the movement, the feeling of being on the road, the scenery sliding by, the skies ever changing”.   I guess I like that hum and vibration somehow.  Sounds completely silly to me when I write it, and yet I do know the feeling.  Bet others do too.
When we arrived at the KOA we were pleasantly surprised, but not before a moment or two of confusion.  You see, there are two casinos in Oroville, and I thought we were somehow going to the one that is on the road to Maryruth’s house.  Instead, the GPS kept trying to send me south of town to a completely different area.  Turns out we really DID have the reservation south of town and not on Maryruth’s road at the Gold Country Casino. 
great idea, a holding pen for your dog while you swimOnce settled in, we discovered what I think is the best KOA we have ever seen.  I often avoid these parks because they seem expensive and crowded.  This one won a Presidents Award of some kind and I can see why.  The sites were absolutely, perfectly level concrete pads, surrounded by large lawns, with a wide parking area along the road in front of your site for the toad.  There were picnic tables and plenty of shade under our very own lovely oak tree.  There were even two dump outlets on the site, one in front and one in back which we so appreciated.  So many parks are set up for just 5th wheels and pickup trucks and the dump is completely out of reach of a motorhome.
The grounds were beautifully manicured, the swimming pool clean and heated, with an adjacent holding pen for your dog, the hot tub fresh and hot, and the clubhouse cool and roomy.  The store and office had a great supply of anything you might need.  With the KOA club card, which ended up paying for itself after all the freebies, got us 20 bucks in free casino money in addition to the 10 bucks we got with our site.  We were also informed that a simple phone call would bring the casino shuttle right to our camp site on demand.  Right to the site!  Ha! The funniest part of this story is that in the four days we were in Oroville, we never managed to get up to the casino and our coupons went unused.
thermolite forebay track 02 launch site at the ForeBay Aquatic Center new OrovilleOn Monday, we decided to explore the Thermolito  Forebay area, a part of the huge Oroville Dam complex of water management systems.  The forebay was a perfect place for kayaking since there are no motorized boats allowed.  It’s really nice not to have to compete with jet skiis and bit boat wakes and noise.  I really love the MotionX GPS app for my iPhone, mentioned by Rick recently, and have used it now for several kayak paddles.  It is fun to see just how fast we have paddled, how many miles we have covered and where we have been on the map.  It even links photos to the sites and then I can upload the track to Facebook or send it via email.  Just tickles me no end.  Of course, another quirk of GPS is the excellence of X and Y and the complete goofiness of the Z factor, elevation.  We discovered to our surprise that on our nice little lake the elevation changed by 30 feet while we were out there.  Too funny. 
sunny day at the Thermolito Forebay near OrovilleI have had a few questions from readers regarding how hard it is to get in and out of the kayak so I made a quick video of the process, just for laughs.  I am still trying to figure out how to get the video to embed without any luck, so may just add the YouTube URL in case you want to see it.  If I can do it, anyone can!


Maryruth and Gerald came out to our little shady campsite that evening and we all went up to the Feather Falls Brewery where we were able to use the other coupons that gave us a discount on food.  After dinner when we thought about playing the slots we all thought better of it and just went back to the campsite instead.  Tuesday was our day to visit at their home, to see all the beautiful garden work that Gerald has done, and enjoy some of Maryruth’s legendary cooking. 
Sue and Maryruth in Maryruth's lovely yardMaryruth and Gerald at home in Oroville Often Oroville can be unbearably hot, and just the week before we were there the temperatures were in the triple digits.  For us, instead, we had beautiful skies, not a speck of smog or haze, and temperatures in the mid to high 80’s.  Couldn’t have been more perfect. 
On Wednesday Maryruth took us out to her sister’s houseboat for an afternoon on the water with lots of good food and drink.  The shuttle picks up passengers at the marina and takes you right to your boat, and even let us bring the dog. We settled in with sunscreen, comfy chairs, and good conversation with a view of the water all around us. Abby and I both even managed a good swim.  Mo was a bit concerned about getting her back on the deck of the houseboat, but in nothing flat, with a little encouragement, Abby learned how to climb that ladder right back up on the boat.
DSC_0011DSC_0009 Thursday morning we decided to explore some other areas for kayaking, including the Afterbay and the Diversion Pool.  The big lake itself it fine for kayaking as well, but not nearly as interesting.  The last time we were there we encountered a lot of wind and boats, and there is a large area of houseboats near the launch that require navigating through before you get to some more open water. 
I left Mo in the shade of the oak tree mid morning to go meet my friends in Davis.  There are so many people that I know from California, and it was so good to see everyone.  Dean Burkett, who had a position in Chico like my position in Oroville had also come to detail and map for me while I was there and we developed a great friendship. 
the three suesIMG_2530 When I had my retirement party two years ago, Dean gave up a 22 year tradition of attending a rendezvous to come to my party instead. You can bet I wasn’t about to miss his retirement send off! I also got to spend quality time with the other two “Sue’s”. We are all a rather interesting phenomenon in California, all GS-12 managers, all in California, and all named Sue.  In a career choice that at one time didn’t have many women, this is particularly funny.  We called ourselves “the three Sues,” Sierra Sue (me), Coastal Sue in Arcata, and Valley Sue in Davis.  Plus we all have kayaks!  The three sues kayak trip is still in the works, but we keep talking about it. I still sometimes get emails meant for one of the other sue’s and they get mine.  It IS a funny thing.
very early morning light on the Feather River I stayed much to late and arrived back home to the KOA far too late for Mo and I to attempt to gamble away our coupons as originally planned.  Instead we got a few hours sleep before taking off the next morning by 6:30 AM.  After all, I had a quilt class in Merrill, at the Tater Patch and couldn’t miss it.  It was the final class in a group of three that I have attended.  We decided to leave early enough to take the back route home, via Highway 70 along the Feather River, north to Lake Almanor and Susanville, and then on to Merrill.  It was a gorgeous drive over a road I haven’t seen for more than 40 years and I loved every minute of it. 
We arrived in Merrill just a few minutes before my class started, unhooked the baby car so Mo could go on home, and I managed to finish the series without falling asleep at the machine.  Let me tell you I was one tired puppy when I pulled into the driveway in Rocky Point that evening, glad to be home and completely satisfied with what turned out to be a really great week.
Next up: an amazing kayak on Shoalwater Bay and camping at Eagle Ridge just ten miles from home!