What day is it?

Current Location: Stovepipe Wells, Death Valley, California

Current temperature: 94.  High today 104 Low tonight 75 Sunny

We are beginning our third day in Death Valley and I am working on photos and blog posts.  There is WiFi only in the lodge here at Stovepipe Wells where we are camped with full hookups, including sewer, for 8 bucks a night.  Yeah you read that right.  But that is a story for another post.  In the mean time…

highway 50Tuesday April 30. We laughed this morning, wondering what day it was.  Finally decided it was Tuesday.  Hmmm.  Must be Belgium?  No, not Belgium, instead, it is time to drive over the mighty Sierras and find the beautiful high desert country of 395.  We also noticed that a couple of clocks had different times.  Maybe half an hour apart.  Did it matter? no.  Vacation time. 

time to check the hookupsGetting on Highway 50 going east was a matter of a few minutes from our campground, and the road was reasonably quiet on this Tuesday morning.  The light was brilliant in that way that seems to be found only in the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  Mo and I both have traveled 50 many times, but once again it all seemed new.  Neither of us remember how closely the road followed the American River, and the river was wild and full with the spring snowmelt. 

perfect rest stop along the road for AbbyWe stopped along the way for a doggie break and when I stepped out of the rig I was overpowered with the intense scent of dry pine and incense cedar.  I live in the forest, Oregon is covered with beautiful forests, many of them the same species, and yet here and only here in the Sierra Nevada Mountains have I smelled this particularly unique fragrance.  I have no idea why other forests don’t smell like this.  I took deep, deep breaths while we walked around a bit and listened to the sound of logging down below us along the river.

Lake Tahoe from highway 50A few more miles along the river and we were up on the crest, and rounding a big curve the blue beauty of Lake Tahoe lay before us.  I also didn’t remember Highway 50 being this steep and narrow.  It is a LONG way down and of course I was in the passenger seat looking down at a very long drop to the bottom.  We knew that the highway 50 route to Carson City would have been a bit easier, but the faster and shorter route was through Markleeville along Highway 88 and a turn south on Highway 89, intersecting 395 just south of Topaz.

concentrationMonitor Pass is narrow and very steep, with a few hairpin turns but the vistas across the east slope of the mountains down into the desert are magnificent.  I am not sure I would like to drive it in a bigger motorhome, but in our 26 footer we do just fine, even towing the Tracker.  Slow and Easy does it.  Traffic was light and the downshift feature in our Ford chassis worked great as usual, although the lowest gear wasn’t really quite low enough and Mo had to use the brakes more often then she liked.

Monitor Pass vistasOnce off the pass and onto 395, the landscape opened up to the dry sage high desert that is the beauty of the Eastern Sierra. Not far down the Walker River we found a great day use area, that looked as though it had been worked on a bit since we passed here last.  In the warm sunshine, the Jeffrey pines were exuding the scent of vanilla, or some think of it as butterscotch. 

gentle Jeffreys, prickly Ponderosa.  This one is gentleMo had never smelled it before and was surprised at how strong it was.  She also learned the “Gentle Jeffrey, Prickly Ponderosa” saying that helps identify the two trees by their cones.  No prickles on this beautiful cone.  The river was full and beautiful as well, and we enjoyed the interpretive signs that talked of the magnificent Walker River Trout, now a quarter of its once historic size. We enjoyed our lunch in the sheltering coziness of the MoHo, and appreciated the nice RV turn around area and parking.  What a great lunch spot right along the road!

smell that vanilla!The rest of the afternoon led us along the eastern slope of the Sierras, where the snow seemed quite thin for the last day in April. Passing the road to Bodie where we spent happy times wandering the high desert, and then passing our road to the Virginia Lakes trails brought back lots of great memories of times we have spent in this, one of our most favorite parts of the world.

Mono LakeWe pulled a long hill and then rounded a big curve to see Mono Lake stretching out before us, a strange and very different shade of green than I have ever seen.  At the rest area overlooking the lake were some more interesting interpretive signs telling the story of this lake like no other in the world.  Farther down in the landscape we found more signs with the story of the geologic hot spot in the area, the Long Valley Caldera.  I had been explaining this particular phenomena to Mo as we traveled along and it was great to find a picture of the extent of the explosion right there along the highway.

Day 3 395 Bishop_130DSC_0130Pulling into Brown’s Millpond just north of Bishop in early afternoon was perfect, and we snagged a nice little site.  Looking at each other and the blue skies and leafed out locust and cottonwood trees, I said, “What about just staying here two nights?”.  A site was available, and we were really glad to know that tomorrow would be a leisurely day exploring around Bishop and just hanging out a bit and enjoying the beautiful surroundings.

Day 3 395 Bishop_115DSC_0115Brown’s Millpond is a great little campground, one not on our radar until Russ mentioned it in a comment and we decided to check it out.  The six miles into Bishop is an easy trip, and unlike the other campgrounds in town, it is off the road and quiet, with the Sierras as a backdrop and shaded by beautiful cottonwoods and locusts now in bloom.  The camp hostess, Stacy, is a granddaughter in the extensive Brown clan, folks who have been in the Bishop area for several generations.  She was a sweet and delightful young woman, full of talk and stories, and so helpful.  She even lent us a DVD player!  Ours in the MoHo has been broken for awhile and we have avoided trying to replace it since we discovered that it is hardwired into the rig.  Funny thing, there is an input for “video game” and Mo thought, why wouldn’t that work for a DVD?!  Sure enough, it did, and we got to try it out without having to buy one just yet.

Browns Millpond campgroundWe watched “Lincoln”, trying once again to actually get through the movie without falling asleep.  I have no idea what to say about this movie.  It was so highly acclaimed, and parts of it were amazing, with good performances and yet it still very nearly put me to sleep.  I am glad we got through it, glad we watched it, if only to know we watched it and to not have to wonder what we missed.  As I said, parts were really good.  A test of a good movie is if you are sorry it is ending or if you are glad it is finally over, do you think?

escape!Before we settled into the movie, though, we decided to walk the campground.  On the west boundary, there was an open gate, and who can resist an open gate leading out into the desert!  It was a great, quiet, off leash place to get a good leg stretch for us and for Abby, and while the sunset wasn’t very colorful, the light was still beautiful. I am so glad to once again be in this part of the world, watching the light change on the mountains and smelling the incredible air, listening to the cottonwoods rustle.

Day 3 395 Bishop_158DSC_0158Before I go, I have to mention that THIS is why I read blogs.  hike into Antelope CanyonAs many years as I have traveled the canyons of Southern Utah, I have never managed to get to Antelope Canyon.  Diane’s post made me cry, and made me remember how top this is on my bucket list.  Time to schedule a Utah canyon trip.  So many places, so little time….

The same thing happened this morning while reading Sherry’s review of Grayson State Park on the western edge of Florida.  Yes, I love Utah, and yes, I love Florida.  Then of course, I read Nina’s beautiful post about gnats while camping on Antelope Island.  I now know for sure when NOT to camp there.

What a great day, what a great life.

Sometimes going to the coast isn’t about the ocean

Harris Beach State Park, Brookings, Oregon. 52 degrees F and clear

Of course, it is always there, in the background, low rumble below the cliffs. On a chilly, sunny, breezy day, however, it might be about the coastal forest. It is our lazy, do nothing but enjoy day, and after a slow morning, we decided to walk some of the trails around the park.

The light was beautiful, that brilliant contrasts stuff that makes all photographers crazy. Backlit moss that looks very nearly fluorescent against the dark, wet spruce bark. Shamrocks every shade of green on the forest floor. I left the Nikon behind this time, telling Mo, “Just how many photos can I take at Harris Beach, anyway?”. “What in the world can I possibly write about or blog about that I haven’t already done a dozen times?”

Yet here I am, with only the iPad, trying one more time to capture that backlit brilliance. Sometimes in that place between sleep and dreaming I let my mind wander to moments of light in my life, simple moments that have this brilliance. It is better than counting sheep.

We will go down to the beach this afternoon, but for the moment Mo is outside reading, and I am here writing. Supper will be easy and we will eat by the fire. Today we won’t wait until chilly dark for the camp fire, we will start it early.

I filled out my morning talking with friends and daughters on the phone, leisurely phone calls that were heart warming. Or maybe that was yesterday. I am on ocean time, even if it isn’t about the ocean.

Of course you recognize where we are

Brookings, Oregon. High today 50F Sunny and breezy. Low tonight 28F

Once again in our favorite front row with hookups, a great Verizon signal and cable tv for a buck extra. The difference is that space A10 at Harris Beach State Park has been cleared and we can see 180 degrees of ocean from our bedroom window. We have been here so many times and posted so many photos that it might look familiar if you have read my blog in the past.

After three productive days raking, burning, cleaning and projecting at the Grants Pass cottage, we headed for the beach. The short two hour drive on Highway 199 was beautiful as always. Nothing to do here but relax, walk when we are motivated and watch the sea. We didn’t even tow the baby car this time. It’s a true quickie vacation.

The Last of Wyoming

August 6 and 7 Falls Campground on Highway 26 west of Dubois, breezy, in the low 70’s

view from loop B in Falls CampgroundIt’s breezy at the moment, and the vertical mountain cliffs north of the campground are a bit clearer than they were when we woke this morning.  Smoke from the fires in Montana and Idaho are finding their way toward us again and dimming the brilliance of the sunshine. I am sitting in the shade by the unlit campfire while Mo splits kindling for tonight.  Tee shirt and shorts are the order of the day.  The sun is warm but the breeze is just chilly enough that the shade feels wonderful. 

Day 16 (54)When planning this trip, I hoped to find something along the way between Thermopolis and the tourist busy part of the highway around Jackson Hole.  Streets and Trips led to this Shoshone FS campground and we took our chances without a reservation.  Then I read RV Sue’s account of her time both here, and at the Brooks Lake campgrounds five miles north, and I knew the choice would be a good one.

It has been a peaceful stop, even with the daytime sound of traffic moving west toward Yellowstone and the Tetons.  The rally at Sturgis is now in progress, so the roar of motorcycles has dimmed to just an occasional rumble.  After our hot evening in Thermopolis, (yes, I still have to write about Thermopolis, the Bighorn Mountains, the Medicine Wheel, Buffalo, and the Little Bighorn Battleground!) even the A loop seems uncrowded to us.  The plans were adjusted a bit yesterday so that we could stay here two nights and have a full day to enjoy the last of the Wyoming mountains.

Map Thermopolis to Falls CampgroundYesterday was a short trip, only 155 miles or so between Thermopolis and this park, with a Wal-Mart stop at Riverton in between.  Some parts of Wyoming are simply breathtaking, but other parts seem like long stretches of a landscape only a geologist could love.  When we reached Dubois, the mountains again lifted to the west.  This part of the west gives full meaning to what John McPhee described so well in “Basin and Range”.

west of Dubois, WyomingI thought of RV Sue in the laundromat, telling her great stories at the only place where you can get any kind of internet.  We haven’t had a decent signal in several days now.  We don’t even have a cell phone signal here and in the park in Thermopolis, the phones wouldn’t work at all and the MiFi struggled along with a single bar. 

settling into the electric loop A at Falls CampgroundWe decided that even though loop B was completely empty yesterday, we wanted electricity, and so entered loop A hoping for two sites together.  Two sites appeared, and just in time, since the two rigs following us were hoping as well.  I think this loop filled up last night, but when we went walking in loop B it was still empty.

brother and sisterNancy and Roger and Mo and I are still enjoying or tandem travels. This is new for us, since we usually travel alone, but it has been working out just perfectly.  Mo and I are somewhat the tour guides, with the responsibility of planning the routes, looking for gas, choosing the overnights, deciding how far we can go in a day.  Whenever I ask Nancy or Roger if they have a preference, their answer is invariably, “Whatever you two want is fine with us”.  Talk about easy!!

campfire at Falls CampgroundWe have been sharing our evening meals, with most of them a joint effort, and now and then we do the big camp breakfast complete with hash browns and toast.  Tonight is steak night, and I’ll bring the salad, Nancy does the Texas toast and we each cook our steaks.  Roger even has a pair of titanium sticks for cooking marshmallows.  They don’t get hot at all over the fire and I have some of those huge camp marshmallows left over from who knows when.  I don’t even like marshmallows, but still love to do the campfire thing.  

dogs playing in the Big Horn River at Falls CampgroundWe walked around the campground last night, took pictures of the waterfall, and spent a lot of time laughing at the dogs while they played in the Wind River that winds through the campground.  Jeremy really enjoyed this spot as well, since it was open and spacious enough that I could let him run around outside on his own.  He is really so good about it, but every once in awhile he decides that he is NOT ready to go in and will go under the rig and laugh at me.

Brooks Lake on a smoky dayToday we decided  to take a leisurely drive (five miles of very washboard road) up to Brooks Lake for some kayaking and hopefully to hear more stories about the mama grizzly and her two cubs that have been hanging out there.  Mama is gone it seems, at least the camp host Richard hasn’t seen them in a couple of weeks.  We also discovered to our dismay that in order to launch our kayaks in Wyoming, we are required to have a Wyoming boat sticker and an additional invasive species sticker for each boat.  A bit too expensive for one afternoon of kayaking. 

Brooks Lake on a smoky dayInstead we parked at the boat launch area and wandered off toward Jade Lakes and enjoyed the part of the trail that borders Brooks Lake. We thought better of hiking the four miles round trip to the top since we were in our kayak sandals with the dogs and  had no bear spray and no water. It was a pretty walk, and at the time we didn’t know that mama bear wasn’t around, so we were a little nervous now and then as we approached buffalo berry thickets. 

campfire at Falls Campground the perfect marshmallowIt feels great to slow down a bit, and this will be our last day in cool, timbered mountains.  Mo built great campfires, surprising that they are allowed in this kind of fire season, but the fire circles at this campground are especially nice, with strong iron grates, and a space beneath the fire box to store kindling.

Jake and Jeremy really like each otherIt  has been wonderful to have enough space to let Jeremy outside to explore the campsite and play with Jackson, his new found best buddy.  Jackson loves the kitty and will lick Jeremy’s ears and follow him everywhere he goes.  Abby isn’t as affectionate with Jeremy, and since Jeremy grew up with dogs, he misses that interaction.  He often snuggles up to Abby and she looks at us saying, “really?!” 

Tomorrow we will again have internet access, television, and probably traffic.  Twin Falls is next on the list.

Jeremy loves it when he can explore camp

It’s a Blur

Alliance, Nebraska. Cloudy and sputtering rain and wind and temperatures changing every few minutes.

Bear Lake Park last day 001Usually, when rv-ing somewhere, I have maps and photos to help me keep track of where I have been and where I am going.   I write leisurely stories with pretty pictures that remind me of our tours and travels and have fun doing it.  At the moment, at the Sunset Motel and RV Park in Alliance, Nebraska, the last four days are just one big happy blur. 

Day 7 (23)We were camping in one spot, driving nowhere in the MoHo, and five rigs and several tents filled up the group site at Bear Lake Regional Park near Morrison, Colorado, within site of just the tips of the red rocks of Red Rocks Amphitheater.  I took literally hundreds of photos, mostly of family, and many duplicates of group shots trying to get all those faces turned toward me and everyone’s eyes actually open.  I have managed to keep up with photo processing, but I have a feeling that the Verizon signal in this remote little Nebraska town isn’t exactly photo friendly.

Colorado to Nebraska (7)I did think it might be nice to throw in an update for friends checking in, so here it is, sans photos.  We are fine.  We had breakfasts, and dinners out, and bike rides and some kayaking, and walking and laughing but no campfires.  In spite of that, we managed S’mores over the bbq grill for some city kids who experienced them for the first time. 

Today as we left Colorado, I stopped in Sterling to see my grandson, married there just last September.  Our big group has dropped to just two rigs, with Roger and Nancy parked beside us and ready for our travels to South Dakota tomorrow.  I’ll try for some photos, but in case it doesn’t work, at least you know we are no longer out of touch. There will always be time later to catch up and write about  everything in more detail

Map Rock Springs to Alliance Nebraska